Shopping in Izmir 2026: Kemeraltı, hans, malls and markets
Kemeraltı, Kızlarağası Han, Havra Street, Konak Pier and four malls: what to buy where in Izmir, opening hours, transport and VAT refunds.
Table of Contents
Izmir has traded on the same spot for four centuries: Kemeraltı bazaar stands where a harbour once lay, and the old hans where caravans brought their goods are still full of shops. Shopping centres with IKEA and hundreds of shops have grown up around them. We have put together a guide to what to buy and where, checking every fact against Visit İzmir, the city guide of the İzmir Metropolitan Municipality, the malls’ own sites, news reports and the text of the VAT law (12 October 2026).
Shopping in Izmir at a glance
Old Izmir is about the bazaar; new Izmir is about malls.
- Kemeraltı (Kemeraltı Çarşısı) is one of the largest historic open-air bazaars and has been the city’s trading centre since the 17th century: spices, jewellery, crafts and old hans.
- Kızlarağası Han, built in 1744, has around 200 small shops. Entry is free; you only pay at the cafés.
- Fresh food: Havra Street in Kemeraltı, and Bostanlı market on Wednesdays.
- Malls: open-air Forum Bornova (with IKEA), Optimum in Gaziemir (282 shops), and Hilltown and MaviBahçe in Mavişehir.
- Konak Pier: the tender for the right to manage the building was cancelled in September 2026. Check in person which businesses inside are open.
- VAT refunds: the law provides for a refund at customs when you leave, on presentation of a receipt or shop document. Ask in the shop before paying.
Kemeraltı: a bazaar where the harbour once lay
Kemeraltı has been Izmir’s trading centre since the 17th century and, according to Visit İzmir, is one of the world’s largest historic open-air bazaars (“Discover Kemeraltı”). The bazaar grew on land reclaimed from the sea: ships once stood where lanes of shops now run. Within its boundaries are around 2,000 listed buildings, and Izmir’s historic centre, including Kemeraltı, has been on UNESCO’s World Heritage Tentative List since April 2020 (Kemeraltı page).
Move the slider: the sea retreats and places where people shop today appear along the shore. The numbers on the diagram match those in the list below.
Harbour diagram · Visit İzmir, checked 12 Oct 2026
Where the water was
18th century
The harbour beside the hans
- 1Kızlarağası Han was built in 1744 and then served as a wharf at the harbour entrance: caravans unloaded goods, and travellers slept in the rooms upstairs.
- 2Yalı Mosque stood beside the sea when it was built in the 18th century.
- •Kemeraltı itself has been the city’s trading centre since the 17th century.
19th century
Wharves and the exchange
- 3In the 19th century, Ali Paşa Square was known as Gemiler İskelesi (“ships’ pier”): vessels docked here. The houses around it served as a kind of exchange until the İzmir Commodity Exchange opened in 1891. The Hacı Salih Paşa Fountain in the square dates from 1828.
- 4The wharf and customs house at Konak opened in 1880, followed by new customs buildings in 1888.
- 1Kızlarağası Han remained an important trading place until the last quarter of the 19th century.
20th–21st centuries
Land reclaimed from the sea
- 4Between 1905 and 1913, land was reclaimed from the sea beside the customs house and a large hall was built. The site housed customs until 1954, a fish market in the 1960s and, after restoration was completed in 2003, the Konak Pier shopping centre.
- 5The Clock Tower was erected in 1901 to mark the 25th anniversary of Sultan Abdülhamid II’s accession to the throne.
- 6The Antiques Bazaar opened in 2019, with around forty shops.
- 1Between 1988 and 1992, Kızlarağası Han was rebuilt from its foundations, apart from the north wing.
A diagram, not a map: it shows which places stood by the water in each era, rather than exact locations and distances. The dotted line marks today’s shore.
It is easy to get lost inside the bazaar, and that is part of the pleasure. A few useful starting points for your route are the 17th-century Başdurak Mosque, whose lower floor sells souvenirs, jewellery and Izmir crafts; the 18th-century Abacıoğlu Han, with its shady courtyard, craftspeople and cafés (it took on its current appearance after restoration in 2007); and Küçük Karaosmanoğlu Han, dating from the late 18th century. In the 1960s, its 43 shops were occupied mainly by leather traders and shoemakers. Following restoration in 2016, it now houses L’agora: a boutique hotel, restaurants and shops (Visit İzmir).
Havra Street
Havra Street (Havra Sokağı) is the heart of Izmir’s old Jewish quarter: Jews from Portugal and Spain settled here from the last quarter of the 16th century. The street has lost much of its historic appearance, but trade remains lively.
Some Izmir residents make a habit of buying their fruit, vegetables, fish, cheese and pickles here (Visit İzmir). One of the doors of Küçük Karaosmanoğlu Han leads onto Havra Street. For other places to buy fish in Turkey, see our guide to Turkey’s fish markets.
Kızlarağası Han: a courtyard with 200 shops
Hacı Beşir Ağa built the han in 1744, as recorded in the inscription on the building. It is one of Kemeraltı’s oldest buildings (han page). Trading took place downstairs, while travellers stayed upstairs. Today it is a tourist bazaar with around 200 small shops, mainly selling antiques, leather goods, jewellery and souvenirs, as well as crafts and carpets. Visit İzmir writes that every Izmir resident visiting Kemeraltı would stop here for Turkish coffee (“Discover Kemeraltı”). You can wander around the han for free; you only pay at the cafés (10 free places in Izmir).
Han plan · Visit İzmir, checked 12 Oct 2026
Then and now
Tap a part of the han.
North wing
1744Part of the original building from 1744.
TodayDuring restoration in 1988–1992, the han was rebuilt from its foundations, apart from the north wing. This is the only part that was not dismantled.
Ground floor
1744The ground floor was used for trade: caravans unloaded their goods here.
TodayAround 200 small shops throughout the han sell antiques, leather goods, jewellery and souvenirs, as well as crafts and carpets. The shops’ locations change.
Upper floor
1744Rooms for travellers: those who arrived with the caravans slept upstairs.
TodayVisit İzmir lists around 200 shops for the whole han, without saying how many are upstairs.
Courtyard
1744The han was built for trade and overnight stays. It remained an important trading place until the last quarter of the 19th century.
TodayA place for Turkish coffee. Entry to the han is free; you only pay at the cafés.
Harbour exit
1744When the han was built, it served as a wharf at the harbour entrance.
TodayThe sea has long gone from here: Kemeraltı’s dry land surrounds the han. Visit İzmir says it is hard to believe today that a wharf once stood here.
A courtyard diagram, rather than a measured plan: the sides and dimensions are schematic.
What to look for
Leather jackets and bags, carpets and kilims, jewellery, copperware and souvenirs are all in one courtyard, making it easy to compare prices by visiting a few shops. We cover the Turkish leather brands worth knowing in our article on Turkish leather brands.
On Ali Paşa Square in Kemeraltı, former hans house restaurants. Since 2019, the Antiques Bazaar has brought together collectors and second-hand dealers, with gramophones, books and old objects.
Konak Pier and Kordon
The Konak Pier shopping centre occupies the old customs building over the water. The wharf and customs house opened here in 1880, followed by new customs buildings in 1888. Between 1905 and 1913, land was reclaimed from the sea and a large hall was built. The site housed customs until 1954, a fish market in the 1960s and, after restoration in 2003, a shopping centre with restaurants (Konak Pier page). The building is said to have been designed by Gustave Eiffel or his company, but Visit İzmir notes that there are no documents to support this account.
The building belongs to Türkiye Denizcilik İşletmeleri. In September 2026, the tender for the right to manage it for 36 years was cancelled: no one placed a bid at the final stage (Anadolu Agency, 14 September 2026; Yeni Asır). It is therefore best to check in person which shops and restaurants inside are currently open.
After shopping, head to Kordon
Kordon is Izmir’s main waterfront: people sit on the grass, listen to street musicians and watch the sun set over the gulf. According to Visit İzmir, the best stretch is between Gündoğdu Square and the Alsancak ferry pier (10 free places).
Malls: four different options
Izmir’s malls are all different: one is open-air, another brings together 282 shops in Gaziemir, and two more stand close to each other in Mavişehir. Tap a façade to open its card: address, shops, opening hours and how to get there. Everything comes from the malls’ own sites.
Malls · their own sites, checked 12 Oct 2026
Choose a façade
Forum Bornova
- Where
- Bornova, beside Ege University; a 200,000 m² site
- Opened
- 2006
- Inside
- 133 shops, including IKEA and the 5M Migros hypermarket; a seven-screen cinema; parking for 3,000 cars
- Hours
- 10:00–22:00 daily (FAQ page; the contact page gives 09:00–22:00)
- Getting there
- Metro to Bornova station, then bus 59 or 259; minibus marked “Evka 4 — Forum Bornova”
- What’s different
- Describes itself as the first open-air mall in Izmir and the Aegean region
Source: about the centre, FAQ, contact
İzmir Optimum
- Where
- Gaziemir, Akçay Cad. 101
- Opened
- March 2012
- Inside
- 282 shops across 84,000 m²
- Hours
- Not given on the pages we read
- Getting there
- İZBAN suburban train to Esbaş station; buses and minibuses heading towards the airport along Akçay Caddesi also stop there
- What’s different
- Describes itself as the largest shopping centre in Izmir and the Aegean region
Source: about the centre, contact
Hilltown Karşıyaka
- Where
- Karşıyaka, Mavişehir
- Opened
- October 2019
- Inside
- 220 shops across 64,000 m²; a food court and restaurants with an outdoor terrace
- Hours
- Not given on the pages we read
- Getting there
- İZBAN to Mavişehir station, then walk; tram on the Ataşehir — Alaybey line to M. Kemal Atatürk Spor Salonu stop
- What’s different
- Pets welcome
Source: about the centre, contact
MaviBahçe
- Where
- Karşıyaka, Mavişehir, Caher Dudayev Bulvarı 40
- Opened
- Not given on the site
- Inside
- Three blocks — A, B and C; shops include Paşabahçe (block A), Karaca (block B) and jeweller Atasay (block C)
- Hours
- 10:00–22:00, unless a shop lists different hours
- Getting there
- Not given on the site; see our transport guide for routes
- What’s different
- Tableware and glassware in one centre: Paşabahçe and Karaca in neighbouring blocks
How to choose
For furniture or homeware, head to Forum Bornova with IKEA. To browse as many shops as possible under one roof, choose Optimum. Hilltown and MaviBahçe are in the same district, Mavişehir, and are easy to combine in one trip.
We explain how to reach each mall by metro, İZBAN and tram in our guide to Izmir’s public transport. For tableware to look for at Karaca and Paşabahçe, see our article on Turkish tableware brands.
Older lists of “Izmir malls” often include İstinyePark İzmir. Its site is currently unavailable, and we could not check which businesses are operating there, so it has no card here.
Alsancak and Karşıyaka: streets rather than centres
In Alsancak, the pedestrian Kıbrıs Şehitleri Street (Kıbrıs Şehitleri Caddesi) has book stalls, cafés, street performers and small shops. Across the gulf is Karşıyaka and its shopping street (Karşıyaka Çarşısı): shops, boutiques and cafés, with the waterfront just a few steps away (Visit İzmir). Visit İzmir recommends going to Karşıyaka towards evening, when it is at its liveliest.
Bostanlı market on Wednesdays
Visit İzmir recommends seeing everyday life in Izmir at its neighbourhood markets, naming two: Bornova and Bostanlı. According to Faysal Acar, chairman of the İzmir Market Traders’ Association, Bostanlı market has been held on Wednesdays at the covered Bostanlı marketplace (Bostanlı Kapalı Pazaryeri) for 37 years. In March 2026, traders protested against a second market on the same site. According to the newspaper, the decision to establish it is being challenged in court, and the case is still ongoing (Aydınlık, 10 March 2026).
Before going, therefore, check with local residents or Karşıyaka Municipality whether the market is running that Wednesday. For prices and how things work in regular shops, see our guide to Turkey’s supermarkets.
VAT refunds for tourists
Turkey’s VAT law (No. 3065, article 11/1-b) works as follows: when a tourist who lives outside Turkey buys goods and takes them out of the country, the shop charges VAT as usual, and customs refunds it on departure, on presentation of an invoice or shop document. The ministry determines which goods qualify and the exact procedure (text of the law).
This article of the law gives neither a minimum purchase amount nor time limits. The details are in the ministry’s rules, so we do not list them here. The practical advice is simple: before paying, ask whether the shop provides refund paperwork, and keep your receipt and purchase until you reach customs.
What to buy where
| Looking for | Where | What to know |
|---|---|---|
| Spices | Spice shops in Kemeraltı | The bazaar is full of spice shops, according to Visit İzmir |
| Fruit, vegetables, fish, cheese, pickles | Havra Street | Many Izmir residents habitually shop here for food |
| Carpets, kilims, crafts | Kızlarağası Han | Entry to the han is free |
| Leather jackets and bags | Kızlarağası Han | Compare a few shops in the courtyard |
| Jewellery | Kızlarağası Han, shops beneath Başdurak Mosque, Atasay in MaviBahçe | Atasay is in block C of the mall |
| Antiques | Antiques Bazaar, Kızlarağası Han | Around forty shops, open since 2019 |
| Souvenirs | Beneath Başdurak Mosque, Kızlarağası Han | Izmir crafts are sold on the mosque’s lower floor |
| Tableware and glassware | MaviBahçe: Paşabahçe and Karaca | Paşabahçe is in block A, Karaca in block B |
| Furniture and homeware | Forum Bornova | IKEA is there |
| The week’s groceries | 5M Migros in Forum Bornova; Bostanlı market on Wednesdays | Check whether the market is running before you go |
| Books | Kıbrıs Şehitleri Caddesi, Alsancak | Book stalls on the pedestrian street |
Quick answers
Where is Izmir’s best bazaar?
Kemeraltı: a historic open-air bazaar and the city’s trading centre since the 17th century. Inside are Kızlarağası Han, Havra Street, Abacıoğlu Han and the Antiques Bazaar.
How much does entry to Kızlarağası Han cost?
Nothing: walking around the han is free; you only pay at the cafés (Visit İzmir).
Which mall in Izmir is the largest?
İzmir Optimum describes itself as the largest in Izmir and the Aegean region: 282 shops across 84,000 m². Forum Bornova has a 200,000 m² site but fewer shops — 133 — although it has IKEA.
How do I get to Forum Bornova?
Take the metro to Bornova station, then bus 59 or 259, or the minibus marked “Evka 4 — Forum Bornova”.
Is Konak Pier open?
The building is still there, but the tender for the right to manage it was cancelled in September 2026. Check in person which businesses inside are open.
When is Bostanlı market held?
On Wednesdays, as it has been for 37 years (according to the İzmir Market Traders’ Association). There is a dispute over the site, so check before going.
Can I get a VAT refund?
Yes, the law provides for this if you live outside Turkey and take your purchase out of the country: customs refunds the money on departure, on presentation of a shop document. The ministry sets the conditions, so ask in the shop before paying.
Sources
All pages were read on 12 October 2026. Opening hours, shops and rules change: the mall or market itself decides. The illustrations give a general impression of the places rather than showing the buildings exactly; they have no signs or logos.
- Discover Kemeraltı — Visit İzmir, checked 12 October 2026
- Kemeraltı Bazaar — Visit İzmir, checked 12 October 2026
- Kızlarağası Inn — Visit İzmir, checked 12 October 2026
- Havra Street — Visit İzmir, checked 12 October 2026
- Old Customs Building (Konak Pier) — Visit İzmir, checked 12 October 2026
- Top 10 Free Things to Do in İzmir — Visit İzmir, checked 12 October 2026
- Konak — Visit İzmir, checked 12 October 2026
- About the Centre — Forum Bornova, checked 12 October 2026
- Questions and Answers — Forum Bornova, checked 12 October 2026
- Contact — Forum Bornova, checked 12 October 2026
- About the Centre — İzmir Optimum, checked 12 October 2026
- Contact and Transport — İzmir Optimum, checked 12 October 2026
- About the Centre — Hilltown Karşıyaka, checked 12 October 2026
- Contact and Transport — Hilltown Karşıyaka, checked 12 October 2026
- Shops — MaviBahçe, checked 12 October 2026
- Contact — MaviBahçe, checked 12 October 2026
- Konak Pier Tender Cancelled (14 September 2026) — Anadolu Agency via Foreks, checked 12 October 2026
- Konak Pier Tender (15 September 2026) — Yeni Asır, checked 12 October 2026
- Bostanlı Market Traders on the Marketplace (10 March 2026) — Aydınlık, checked 12 October 2026
- VAT Law No. 3065 — mevzuat.gov.tr, checked 12 October 2026
